Panasonic Lumix FZ200 user manual Illustrated, Part3b –  focus modes

Panasonic Lumix FZ200 user manual Illustrated, Part3b – focus modes


One of the features I forgot to mention
in the photo Styles yesterday was the fact of customizing these profile and
applying that to the custom profile in the setter moment we have the photo
Styles of standard vivid natural monochrome scenery portrait and the last
one woods custom I said you could apply any option you like within this and it
would modify that custom setup well I should have actually described was the
method of doing the customization so if we’re going to photo Styles and say I
like the scenery mode the camera goes but it just gives a little bit too much
saturation for me I could reduce that saturation by going to the saturation
setup coastering down reducing the saturation and then applying that to the
custom setting when you press the menu set button that now should do want to
overwrite the current custom settings and you say yes it then switches to a
custom mode for you and you can see that in custom the actual bottom now says
scenery and it has brought through the settings that we saved in the scenery
mode of +1 sharpening minus 2 saturation and minus 2 noise reduction and you can
save that in any profile so for example if I went through to the standard mode
and I change the sharpening to plus 1 instead of plus 2 if I go down to the
custom setting and overwrite the current settings again if I go into the custom
profile you can see that we’ve got the plus 1 sharpening minus 2 noise
reduction applied to the standard photo style while we’re talking about focus
it’s probably no time to talk about the depth of field or sometimes called depth
of focus that the camera exhibits using different apertures and lens zoom
positions you may be aware that in a wide aperture situation the depth of
field is a lot greater than in a telephoto one and also that the lens
aperture also affects the depth of field a large aperture ie
a small F number like f 2.8 gives you a shallow depth of field and
a larger F number like f8 gives you a greater depth of field to give you some
idea of how that works I’ve set up this display here so we can actually focus on
one particular area and then you’ll be able to see the amount of depth of field
at different F stops on the model I’m going to photograph I’m going to set the
focal distance to the 10 centimeter mark on this rule I’m going to take the
picture at F 2.8 and we should see there’s a slight amount of depth of
field in front of the 10 centimeter mark and there’ll be a depth of field beyond
the 10 centimeter mark will then change the lens f-stop to f/8 and then look at
the amount of depth of field that the camera exhibits using that f-stop you
might be interested in to see that to actually photograph this scene in
reality I wouldn’t focus on the front of this first vehicle and actually focus
slightly into the picture which gives me an amount of focus in front and amount
of focus behind and that way I’ll get more depth of field than just focusing
on this first object and hope that the last one becomes in focus so let’s see
that in practice so first of all I need to set up the camera for single area
focus and that’s indicated by this little icon on the top and we saw that
in the last video there are three ways to achieve this you can either use a
quick menu to get to the auto focus option here to select single point or
you can use the navigation menu here on the left-hand side or you can use the
focus button on the side of the camera whichever one is applicable in this case
I’ll use the one on the back of the navigation button has that easier for me
to reach so I go into one area and then use the cursor to come to the right and
then that gives me access to changing the size and position of this focus
target so I’m going to bring the focus target down to the 10 centimeter mark
change the size of the focus to the smallest area and then select it to the
10 centimeter area we’ll set that in position I’m now going to take the
photograph here at F 2.8 now I’ll use of timer when we see that in the video
we’ll be able to see the amount of focus in front that’s critically sharp and the
amount of focus behind which is critically sharp at the F 2.8 setting
I’m now going to change the lens aperture to f/8 the method I’m going to
use to change the aperture is called program shift and it’s just feature
within the P menu so that the camera will maintain the correct exposure if
you change the aperture and shutter combination so if I have to press the
shutter button the camera gives me the exposure and it turns yellow which means
I’ve now got control of the aperture shutter combination and if I use the top
control dial while it’s still active I change to the program shift mode and
that’s indicated by the P and the double-headed arrow so I’m now going to
change that aperture shutter value combination to f/8 and if you notice as
I change the aperture to a smaller value the shutter speed decreases to allow you
the time gets longer to maintain the correct exposure value so I’m going to
change though to f/8 and again take the photograph and we’ll be able to now see
that there’s a lot more depth of field in front of the target area and behind
the target area so I’ll take array of the rule and repeat that so we can
actually see the photograph in final production program shift that’s locked into the
camera will stay active even if you momentarily went into another mode so
for example if I suddenly saw a scene that I wanted to photograph and I put
the camera in ia mode just to get that picture without have any setup to do the
camera will remember the program shift mode that we’ve been engaged and when I
come back into the P mode it will remember the program shift as indicated
again by the camera if you wanted to release the program shift then you just
turn the control dial until the double-headed arrow turns off and that’s
normally at the 2.8 setting let’s now look at the manual focus mode and I get
more questions on how to setup the manual focus mode than any other mode
this camera exhibits it’s really a simple process and it’s just a logical
one that you have to drive your mind into the manual focus obviously gives
you the option to set the focal point to where you want on the scene to engage
manual focus we slide the switch on the side of the camera to the MF position
and that’s indicated by the MF symbol appearing on the LCD display once you
switch to the manual focus position the way to engage manual focus is to use the
top control dial the top control dial is the key to setting up the manual focus immediately you change to manual focus
you end up with the manual focus in control so that is the icon highlighted
in yellow if that icon isn’t in yellow ie if you selected a different mode so
for example if you’ve selected exposure value compensation the manual focus will
not work for you you have to have the manual focus set to yellow to enable
this mode so again one depress of the control dial puts me in control of
manual focus now when I rotate the control dial we will get control of the
manual focus if I click to the right you can see that the display brings up a
manual focus screen and on that screen you can
see the distance from point O one of a meter over to infinity so once you’re in
this mode you have got two methods to change the actual focus focus point you
have either the top controller which I’m using now to change the focus position
or you can use the navigation buttons left or right whichever you prefer as
you do so you can see on the screen the focus point change and it’s a magnified
view I can then use the navigation button or the top control dial to set
the accurate focus point and it’s basically just go through the focus
point and then just step back into it to get the actual focus point you desire I
think one of the problems with the manual focus method is the fact that you
have to be fairly quick with the operations when you go into the menu for
example if you wanted to change the position of the focus area you only get
one second when you go into the manual focus setting to enable that mode to do
that we turn the top control down to the right which gives us control of manual
focus and then within the first second you have to press the menu set button
which will then give you the option to move the focus area unlike the auto
focus single area you can’t change the size of the image you can only change
the position at which you’re going to focus so I’m going to try and do this
fairly quickly I’m going to enable the manual focus mode by rotating the dial
to the right and then immediately press menu set to get control of that so
manual focus menu set now is giving me the opportunity to move the position of
the target so I’m going to center that over the cab of the first vehicle once
we’ve established the position we want to photograph press the menu set button
and that takes us into the adjustment and again we can use the navigation
buttons to set the point of focus if you’re
going to do a lot of photography which involves a lot of manual focus there is
a facility in the menu to change the side lever from a zoom operation to a
manual focus operation and that gets around all this problem of depressing
menu buttons to enable you to get into manual focus to enable that facility you
need to go into the menu and it’s in the tools option so we’re going to menu
cursor across down to tools and then can cursor through until we see side lever
I’ve got it set for focus it’s normally on zoom so as you move the lever up and
down the camera zoom position will change but I want that to be enabled for
focus so if we come down to focus and press menu set so now when we come back
to the display screen to take the photograph if I operate the side lever
on the side of the camera as I depress it or lift it up you can see that I’ve
gained access to the focus point and I can change the focus a lot easier than
using the manual control buttons if the camera is a long way to focus there’s a
quick shortcut to bring it into focus so if I just momentarily go in to change
the focus position I use the side lever and I’ll put it all the way over to
infinity and to enable you to get to manual focus on that without having to
go through the process of using the control buttons to get you to a focal
point you can use the focus button on the side of the camera and that will
force the camera to do an automatic focus single shot you can then go into
your manual focus position and change it if you felt that you needed to just
fine-tune that but the camera normally gets it pretty much spot-on you’ll
notice when we go into manual focus the focus scale indicates the actual focal
distance between the camera and the subject and the width of the bar
actually determines the amount of depth of field so it gives you an indication
of the amount of depth of field you’ve got for this
particular scene so if I engage manual focus you can see that the bar is very
narrow so they want to keep depth of field is quite small it will depend on
the telephoto setting of the lens if i zoom out slightly when I go into manual
focus now you can see that the depth of field is much larger and that is because
of the change in the focal length of the lens the wider the focal length the more
depth of field you’ll have so you can see in this subject now we’ve got the
front of the image and the rear in perfect focus so the more telephoto you
set on the narrower the depth of field becomes you can use that to your
advantage if you want to take photographs of punts against the
background and below the background or a portrait against the background or if
you wanted maximum depth of field and obviously use f/8 and a wider angle
setting and that will give you the maximum depth of field you can from this
camera so far we’ve only talked about static focus so what if our subject is
actually moving we’ve got a dynamic motion in our subject there are two
methods a camera gives us to try and capture motion in our subject the first
one is called autofocus flexible the AFF mode the other one is called autofocus
continuous the AFC mode there is a slight difference in the method in which
the camera focuses and I’ll try and demonstrate that with the subject in
motion now well that’s it for this second part of installment three of the
video series in the next part I want to look at the remaining options in the P
mode that’s going to be exposure compensation and exposure bracketing and
have a look at these features such as eye dynamic and in the next page the
high resolution effects what they give to the photograph what to be aware of if
you engage them and I’ll show you some images I’ve shot with them without those
modes to give you some idea of its capability so until then thanks very
much for watching again and I hope to see you in that video bye for now you

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98 thoughts on “Panasonic Lumix FZ200 user manual Illustrated, Part3b – focus modes”

  • I think the best choice for this is to use the iA plus mode and adjust the expose value compensation if the results are too ligh or too dark. The camera does additional processing in low light in this mode which isn't easy to achieve in other modes but it may make multiple exposures in some cases. Cover the flash with some tissue paper for better results.

  • Your videos on the FZ200 have been extremely helpful to me. I went through quite a bit of research trying to decide which superzoom bridge camera to purchase and the videos convinced me to get the FZ200. I've had the camera for a few weeks now and am extremely satisfied with it's versatility and image quality. Much of that satisfaction is due to following your recommendations of how to get the most from the camera and I truely appreciate your efforts. Can't wait for the next episode!

  • Thanks for the comment, appreciated. I'm not aware of any remote control that covers that range of functionality in one unit. Certainly zoom is not supported through the remote socket of the camera though the time lapse could be used with suitable unit.

  • The interval shoot is a common feature and can be used for timelapse provided you turn off the standby/economy mode of the camera. This timer on ebay(UK) for the fz200 (Item Number 150765641996) can do 1 second interval upto 99hrs so this would be ideal for the purpose. The TC-282 is for the panasonic cameras

  • Thank you for the great review, we bought the camera, but now have 1 concern – The flash has variable intensity so that some photos are too bright and some are insufficiently illuminated, is this a flaw with the camera or a setting issue? Thanks so much

  • The flash of the camera has a range where it will compensate the light output depending upon subject distance. This should be 0.3 – 13.5 m (W) and 1.0 – 13.5 m (T) and the results are better indoors where the bounce light fills in some of the shadows. Is there a pattern to the incorrect exposure like subjects wearing dark or light clothing always close to or further away. Do a series of test shots at 2 metres do they remain consistent if they don't it indicates a possible camera fault

  • Dear Graham

    I have found your FZ200 series most useful and informative. However, has Part 3a of the Users Guide Illustrated uploaded properly as I am unable to see it in the Channel listing.

    Merry Christmas

    Fred

  • Dear Graham,

    Thank you for all the great info you've been providing on the FZ200.

    I have been comparing the FZ200 with the Canon SX50, when I recently realized that I should have been comparing the FZ200 with the Fujifilm S-X1 instead. Something that compensates somewhat for the slower (f/2.8-5.6) aperture at high zoom is the larger, 2/3" sensor of the S-X1, which should in principle provide good pictures.

    Any thoughts as to how the S-X1 might compare with the FZ200 overall? Thank you.

  • It certainly looks the real contender in this choice with some formidable specifications. Spec for spec the 2 cameras look similar apert from the constant aperture of the fz200. Of course this means optically it may not be as well corrected as a lens with such a compromise. I haven't seen any reviews or images/video so I can't say if the IQ is better or not. I would certainly look at some reputable review sites to get a better impression of the camera.

  • I am a proud new fz200 owner and I have watched a few of your videos already. Thank you for putting these tutorials together for an amateur like myself needing a very basic, hand over hand type how to. It's an amazing little camera and not so intimidating anymore.

  • Thanks for that, I must admit my camera is set at iso 100 and I make it a rule never to move from this unless I'm shooting video so I had forgotten the caveat about the auto iso setting

  • Dear Graham,

    Thank you for all the videos on the FZ200. I bought one a month back and I was in bit of a dilemma on how I'm going to use my first bridge camera. But now , thanks to your video tutorials, I'm getting the hang of it . Thank you 🙂

  • HI Graham..In this video between 14.50 and 14.57 minutes you have said that you will be covering the Exposure Compensation and Exposure Bracketing in the P mode in next video. I have watch the next video in this series (3c) but could not come across the instructions about EC and EB. Part 3c is all about AFF & AFC and iResolution & i Dynamic features.Have you covered it in some other video?
    Regards

  • Sorry I forgot to include this in the video. I will be doing and advanced section where I will include this in that video. sorry you had to wait.

  • Your tutorials are worthy of every wait..If I know anything about my first digital cam (Fz200), almost all the credit goes to you and your lucid methodology…Will be waiting..
    Regards

  • Thanks Graham for such a wonderful tutorial. I bought FZ200 after watching couple of your videos. Now its a rotine for me to watch and practice. Thanks very much. 5* from me.

  • Hi Graham..Have you covered the Exposure Compensation and Exposure Bracketing yet. Please accept my apologies for bothering you, but as far as I know you have posted the last tutorial in the FZ200 series. May I also share a problem with you that I am facing with EVF/LCD display of my FZ200 while reviewing my pictures. I am not able to post it here because of space constraints. If you find it alright can you please mail me your email at [email protected] Thanks in anticipation.

  • Hi Graham..very, very good all your Tutorials. Thank you.
    The FZ200 is really a very good camera, but only if you know them. Your tutorial showed us what the camera can do. I'v learned a lot. Thank you.

  • Hello Graham. I have finally finished with all the FZ200 tutorials. They have been very helpful.
    I came back here to post a comment because I was going through the camera options and in REC menu came across these two, Quick AF [Page 3] and Conversion [page 5].
    I know Quick AF is Auto Focus but what purpose does it serve? Does quick AF give lower focus as oppose to a slower focus?
    and the conversion I realised is for locking the camera into a telephoto or macro mode but how useful are they?

  • The quick auto focus is designed to allow the camera to start focusing even before you half press the shutter button. I believe it starts to operate as the camera as the camera is held still. It does mean that the battery is used more so could limit the total number of shots available. I normally have it turned off as I want to choose my focus point.The close up lens and telecon settings are there so the camera does not vignette. I use CU lenses on the 52mm lens thread directly so no need for it

  • Hi, can you change the values of the Shutter Speed or Aperture independently in the PROGRAM MODE? will it always be in PROGRAM SHIFT mode? i am trying to change the values of the SS and Aperture but no success.

  • ok no need to reply, there's no way i can change the values. the camera sets the correct exposure/ shutter speed as you change the aperture.

  • Hello Graham, I would like to ask you something about auto focus. Sometimes in macro mode, or even when I tried to shoot the sky today, half-pressing the shutter button, tries to auto-focus, but it ends up with something like 0.66ft – ∞ (infinity symbol)

    Can you please tell me what is the reason for this and how can I correct it?

    Thanks 🙂

  • Hi when you are outside and shooting at more than 1 metre from your subject if you make sure the focus switch is in the upper position on the lens barrel it will prevent the lens from cycling its full autofocus range. If you shoot the sky there is probably no area that the camera can "lock" focus onto. Focus on something at a great distance, half press the button and keep it depressed and then re-compose to take the shot or press the ae/af lock button to set this focus point

  • Graham, I understand the procedures for setting Manual Focus. Can you tell me when this feature (complex) is used rather than simply using the telescopic focus. Does it give you better detail for close up photography or??

  • Am not sure if this is so, BUT, when you move the dial to say move the aperture to f.8, the camera gives you a shutter speed. You can increase the shutter speed, if you wish, by increasing the ISO if you find it necessary.
    Someone, let me know if I am correct?

  • it depends on the lighting condition, the camera will change the shutter speed… well i think graham should answer this.. but thats the way i see it 🙂

  • Hi Ann, yes the P mode allows you to effectively select the aperture and then if the shutter spped is too low/high you can change iso. The camera then recalculates the shutter speed. Also any changes in light are reflected in the shutter speed varying.

  • For video shooting the V727 being designed as a video camera will give much better results than the FZ200. It also has power zoom which is better controlled than the FZ200but obviously not the same zoom maximum focal length. Its wi-fi capabilities also open up new possibilities for the camera

  • Hi Graham, I am somewhat new to the FZ200. I turned it on the other day, and the picture did not fill up the screen. Did I set something that I am not aware of,or is there a problem with the camera? Thank you, Bruce Caton

  • Hi Bruce, you don't mention if it it not filling equal top and bottom or side to side. It could be you have changed to a mode with a differnent screen aspect ration 3:2 is the only one which totally fills the screen, 4:3 leaves borders side to side and 16:9 leaves borders top and bottom. It could be say iA is set for 3;2 and maybe P (or asm) is set for 16:9 check this first, if not please give me more info to help you.

  • AFF is Pnasonics term for auto focus flexible and is used when you have subjects moving randomly – like your running dogs. The camera will track the focus better than AFC, which is autofocus continuous, as it uses a different method of calculating where the focus might change too. AFS is singke shot focus and only locks focus as you half press the shutter, if the subject moves between this and the full depress it will be out of focus.

  • Thank you Graham! Extremely useful! I have noticed one thing you did not mention about the manual focus assist. On mine, Firmware Ver 1.0, if I press the dial a second time after having gotten in to MF assist by rotating the dial, the magnification changes. You can alternate between two magnifications by pressing the dial. And if the FM assist area box is displayed and movable at the time, pressing the dial again will change the size of the box, reflecting the change in magnification.
    Regards

  • I watched the part 3b video and am having problems going into the program shift mode. When I depress the focus button my aperture and shutter speed do not stay on the screen. Additionally, when I turn the wheel, only my speed changes. What am I doing wrong?

  • Hi Gary. Program shift is only active in P mode for about 5 seconds once you half depress the shutter button. The aperture and shutter speeds will turn yellow on the LCD during this period. If you move the back control wheel you will enter the "shift mode" and a double headed arrow will show. This locks your new values. They remain locked until you turn the dial to give f2.8, or turn off the camera. Hope that helps.

  • Hello Graham,

    I was never able to get the Program Shift to engage. I tried to mimic your actions.

    1. Camera set to P mode.
    2. Camera set to AF.
    3. I tried AE, AF, and AE/AF Lock.

    I closely examined your display and as far as I can tell, mine matches yours directly. However, when I presh the shutter-release, the aperature/shutter speed values don't turn yellow and they don't change when I turn the rear dial.

    Do you have any idea what I might be doing wrong?

    Thank you,
    Garland Smith

  • Hello Garland, I cannot think of any mode which prevents the program shift from operating apart from iso being set to auto rather than an absolute value. If you are on auto ISO then try setting the camera to iso 100 ( you may even get better image quality) and that should resolve the issue. Let me know how you get on.

  • Thanks, Graham. By changing the ISO from Auto to 100, I was able to get the program shift to engage. However, when I change the aperture, the shutter speed is not changing as it does in your demonstration. Do you have any idea what might be afoot?

    Thank you,
    Garland Smith

  • Thank you. By changing ISO from AUTO to 100, I was able to overcome the problem. Initially, the Program Shift was only updating the Aperture but not the Shutter Speed. However, it turns out that was related to lighting in the room. When I took it outside, it worked as expected. Thanks for your help with this.

    Best regards,
    Garland Smith

  • I figured it out (see comment above)… It had to do with light level. Thanks for the hint to change ISO from AUTO to a specific value such as 100. Great feature.

  • hey graham,

    i can not click on the digital zoom to activate it is light grey .. not on the p stad or A or P what do i wrong?

  • If you have the camera set to RAW or RAW/Jpeg this will disable digital zoom. It only works for jpeg settings

  • you can do manual focus however it is with the side lever or the back button which isn't ideal as it does tend to cause shake during the video clip if you dont have the camera on a pretty sturdy tripod

  • Hello Graham. I've been watching your instructional videos about this camera, which gave me much more confidence to decide to buy it two days ago. I hope you don't mind if you can help me show how the GRID lines are displayed on the LCD screen. thanks a lot

  • The grid lines are set up in the spanner(wrench) icon on page 3 under guidelines. You can then set to your preferred style

  • These instructional videos are brilliant! I figure if I watch them a half a hundred more times, I might just get the hang of the wonderful camera. Thanks so much for your time in putting them together!

  • Thank you, this camera has a lot of potential once you understand some of the basic rules concerning how to use it correctly. I am sure you will get some great images and video with the camera.

  • Hi Graham, I really appreciate the great advice you give in your workshop videos on the FZ200. What a wonderful camera which constantly gives excellent results. Looking forward to your next edition. Denis

  • Hi Graham, I just bought my FZ200 yesterday. Your videos are brilliant!! Like Tony above, I will need to watch them over and over again. Thank you so much for your hard work. I'm up to Part3c, how many are there in total so far?

    Keep up the wonderful work you are doing. Regards Suzi in Oz

  • Thanks for the comment. All the videos are in the playlist and I think there are 6 or 7 in the series. I hope you continue to enjoy the camera

  • Where can I find the book "PanasonicLumix FZ200 – The missing manual – Advanced user guide – Graham Houghton

  • Graham, I'm having difficulty changing aperture in P mode – the F stop & shutter speed do not highlight when I depress the shutter half way, so if I depress the control dial, all I get is exposure compensation. Do you have any idea what I'm not doing/doing wrong?

  • Hello Karen, in the P mode press the shutter half way down until the camera focuses, then release the shutter button. At this point the program shift becomes active and the yellow icons of fstop and shutter appear. To change the combination just rotate the back control wheel – do not depress it. to cancel program shift turn the control dial to the left until the double headed arrow disappears. If you see the exposure compensation in yellow push the control dial inwards to get back to PS mode

  • Hello Harish, no the FZ200 doesn't have any GPS facility. It is probably going to be included in a later version as well as wi-fi etc. The travel zooms (TZ series) are th only ones with gps enabled as far as i know

  • Hello Karen. If you are in intelligent ISO mode the Program Shift is disabled. Since Graham covers the ISO functions before Program Shift, there is a chance you left the camera in i.ISO before getting to this step….especially if you were updating settings as you followed along!

  • Hello guys, I am a recent owner of the Pana FZ200… talking about manual focus I can't seem to change the focus point as Graham suggests here (with the MF active) and quickly enough pressing the menu/set button (it just plain takes me to the menu layout). I even tried changing the lever function to Focus instead of Zoom but to no effect. Can anyone here or, better still, Graham, tell me how do I go about changing the focus location once in Manual Focus mode?

  • I'm learning a lot about my new camera, but (don't laugh) I still don't know how to set the time and date so I know when I took it?  I don't want it  dated on the photograph, however!  Thanks for any help you can give.

  • Hi Graham! Thank you so much for everything. I have a hard time realizing a great focus with my aperture at F2.8. I seem to have respected all steps but I love to have focus on the object that I want and blurry the rest. It does not have the same focus you seem to have . maybe anybody who could help me out, I would really appreciate it! 🙂  

  • Hello Graham, very good your videos! They served me a lot.
    I want to ask a question, my camera is the measure in feet, how do I change it to meters?
    thank you very much for your time.
    (Sorry for my bad English)

  • Hi Graham great video a life saver, thanks for that. Just looking for direction as to how to access Program- Shift. Got lost in mid video due to this.
    Thank v much
    😊
     

  • Top of the day to you Mr. Houghton! My FZ70 does not have the MF button. It does have the MF feature in the tools area of my menu. It is basically an on or off option. I am guessing this is one of the downfalls of the FZ70? Or is there a hidden way to get to the Manual Focus so it can be adjusted?

  • Thank you so much for all the invaluable information.  I am following along, step-by-step.  All of my settings appear to be the same as yours at the point where you go into program shift mode.  When I change the f-stop, the SS is not changing, it is remaining fixed.  I surfed through the menu and saw the "min shtr speed" setting – which is on AUTO.  I have changed ISO to 100 and to ISO AUTO and still the SS remains at 4.  What could be the problem?

  • Sir, I can't thank you enough for the videos. I am just retired and planning some trips but didn't have a decent camera. after researching online i decided to look at the Lumix FZ200 and after more extensive research I came across your videos. What a pleasure to have someone so knowledgeable acting as a personal coach. i bought the FZ200 and am practicing with it. Again, your videos have been invaluable….  

  • Hi Graham firstly many thanks for the series of videos they are great! I've been trying to get into shift mode, half depressing the shutter does not make the aperture and shutter go yellow and therefore allow me to adjust them. I've mirrored your settings but clearly I have something wrong! Can you help please? Thanks

  • The auto focus on my Panasonic FZ200 is terrible. I've missed a lot of 'quick' shots because of it. I've read that many owners of this camera experience this same problem. Is there anything that you could recommend I try to work around this situation? I'd really like to be able to use auto focus in iA mode.

  • With regard to changing the size and position of the focus area in the Manual Focus, I find it easier and faster, to set the focus mode on the lens to AF, change the size and position of the focus area and switch back to MF on the lens. This is also because I don't like to use the MF assist, but without MF assist clicking on the Menu/Set button catapults you only to the menu, thus you cannot even change the focus area position when the MF assist is OFF.

  • Is it possible to change focus area and size in Aperture mode as well? It would be useful during landscape shots, e.g. to adjust the sharpest area when an object is composed to the left third of the picture instead of the middle.

  • Hi Graham. The screen on my fz 200 has life in it, but just a blank screen. Can I reset the camera? Thanks!

  • This is great. It's amazing to see 73k views, and just 336 likes. You've produced hours of professional quality incredibly helpful instruction for people, and offered it entirely for free, and they can't be bothered to lift a finger and hit the like button. smash that like button people.